The Rest Will Have to Wait for Next Time

And so the fairy tale draws to a close, thank you for being my audience through these misadventures. It's hard for me to put into words what being in Istanbul feels like. For me moments would come where I felt inspired and adventurous, up stairways to hidden vistas or leaning against the rail of the ferry, straining to take in all that passed. There's something magical about this place, or maybe it's part of human nature, something awakens in us when we take root to different soil.


Here's a young cat enjoying a bit of shade. The humidity and heat have struck again, this weekend all we managed to do was lie around the apartment complaining about the weather before working up the strength to spend the afternoon in the mall. Soulless box of consumerism aside, Cevahir is air conditioned. For this reason (I think) I see many women sporting the incredibly conservative black drapes doing their shopping in the mall. Mecidiyeköy isn't exactly that conservative, even in the neighborhoods that have a much more religious feel I don't see the voluminous black garment. But my guess is when the shopping needs to be done a drive across town is totally justified by the air conditioning that awaits. Having spent high school as 'super goth' with a black trench coat in the summer months, I can sympathize. But enough flippant remarks about the benefits of air conditioning.

Cevahir mall is if nothing else, full of stores and I had a little mission in mind before leaving Turkey. Because so many cloths are made here, and cloths tend to be really cheap. I thought, "Gee Alex, time for that suit. You might find yourself in situations where a Utilikilt won't be appreciated as formal attire." I've got to put in my full recommendation on doing this, with a lot of help from one of the ladies I came to something that makes me look like I'm paying attention. Textiles are inexpensive in Turkey, particularly wool, compared to the US and so deliciously soft.

I have been given an open invitation to return to Turkey, an offer I will take repeatedly I know. But, my plane leaves at sunrise, it's time to put away these misadventures. I hope you enjoyed reading, see you later. I'll post video projects as they are completed, so check back in a week, you might see something.

Four Days Left, Yikes

Unfortunately the vacation up to the Black Sea didn't get off the ground. No seaside fish cookout and evening hikes this time. But that means one more weekend in Istanbul, and I have a partner for the excitement. The ladies returned from the South coast and one hopped on another flight a less than a day later! Crazy ladies, they can't seem to stay in one country for more than a week.
Last night, in the spirit of Western decadence, we ordered Pizza from Little Caesar's and watched a movie. I've seen many chains that I really didn't expect to see, not just Little Caesar's, Quiznos and El Torrito surprised me when I saw them.
That's something that startled me as soon as I arrived in Turkey, all these companies that I thought of as a subset of 'American' actually have a much larger scope. But rather 'American' is becoming subordinate to these entities, buying a hamburger wrapped in paper without leaving your car isn't a uniquely American thing. I guess just wasn't expecting to see so much that was the same when other flags were flying. Some more naïvety left behind I suppose. That said, the pizza was so delicious, they put sesame seeds on the crust, kind of like a simit. And you can order lamb on your pizza, which sure beats slimy pork sausages.

From the Ferry

What a view, enjoy.

Last Weekend in Istanbul

Saturday was a bit of a blow-out. The morning concerts I was thinking of actually only run through May. I don't think anything was playing that day, the box office was closed. But since I was in Taksim I figured I would take a look for a new pair of sunglasses, my old scratched up pair I lost somewhere in the wilds of West Istanbul. The main street of Taksim is under repair, again. Not that there was anything wrong with the old job, but the minister or whoever came out to take a look at the finished product of months of labor crews and torn up concrete and decided that he didn't like how it looked. The large paving stones are being replaced by some that have a grid on them.
Everyone has their own opinion of why this is being done. A friend of mine told me that she thinks the roadwork and hassles are being kept as long as possible because Taksim is where the youth go to relish in debauchery and the man wants to be a buzz-kill. The place is packed with clubs, the music plays all night, and everyone is drunk. Others just think it's as simple as the person calling the shots likes making people subject to his or her whims. It wouldn't be the first time it's happened in Istanbul.
Regardless, the construction was fairly concentrated so once I was past it I was free to enjoy the old new flagstones for a bit longer and scope out some good sun glasses. I started feeling concerned, where did I get sunglasses in Turkey? I didn't remember seeing a large rotating display stand at the supermarket. Fist I came to a store titled Optik something-or-other and I thought, great I'll find a nice pair on the cheep side and I'll stop squinting outside. Buuuuut, on the cheep side here meant 350 YTL, about 220 bucks. A chunk of plastic, wire, and glass perched on the front of my face can only make me look so cool so I thanked the lady, confirming her initial suspicion I was an underfunded vagabond, and went in search of more questionable merchandise sold with no questioned asked.
Smaller streets branch off from Taksim's main street at regular intervals, either sloping a bit uphill on the left hand side, or downhill on the right. But this sometimes changes... I headed along one of these side streets, merchants selling silly hats to tourists, check. Merchants selling fish with hopeful cats gathering, yup. Found my man, a rack of sunglasses, some watches, a mirror to admire yourself in, and some flashy lighters. Fake or stolen, this guy's prices were right, fifteen for some spiffy, unscratched sunglasses.
The crowd in Taksim seemed kind of sparse for a Saturday afternoon, but that could just be from the heat. I'm sure the street was packed to overflowing by 8 pm. But I took the shadiest route I could to the metro and got home for an evening of recuperation to prepare for Sunday.

Sunday, I think it was my last trip to Sultanahmet, and maybe my favorite. A bit of a bummer here, I forgot to charge my camera battery and it died right after I took a picture of the palace, Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque from the ferry, I'll put that up in a bit. As always the ferry was a bit hectic to board and exit, but the trip is great after getting settled. A few simits on the way over made breakfast, and something was not entirely normal when I arrived in Kadıköy to change ferries. Police blockades circled the entire square that's normally home to fish sandwich and shoelace salesmen. A police boat even guided the ferries in, making sure there was no funny business. Police barricades aren't exactly common and a huge police force was also deployed. Nothing was happening yet, but a stage was being set, some patriotic/anthem type music was playing, and huge banners were strung up in corners of the stage. I caught words like Imperialism. It couldn't have been a normal protest. Heck, I was part of one that involved burning torches in public and there weren't barricades or a quarter as many police!
My guess is a government official was giving an address in the square, a few people in street cloths were being let through the police wall after some questions, but most folks just steered clear of the entrance. Why the quay in Kadıköy? I never found out since I had to hike up my kilt and make for the ferry before it set out for Eminonu. On my return trip I saw the banners were all down and while the barricades hadn't been taken away, they had been turned to the side and foot traffic came and went as it normally does.
I arrived in Eminonu and struck out along the waterfront road that outlines the peninsula. This road sees lots of use from the locals who picnic in the Topkapi courtyard. Merchants along the road sell helpful picnic additions like melons or bananas. The courtyard is filled with beautiful, tall trees and park benches to enjoy them properly. I stopped to rest my bones and take in the breeze and while I was under that great green canopy the stresses and worries of every day were set aside and the summer day felt great. After a bit of this communing with nature (zoning out) I walked through the rest of the gardens, up a street with a few hopeful merchants with bead necklaces and airsoft guns and made my fifth visit to the archeology museum.
In the winter this place was deader than any museum I had ever visited, but things have changed and crowds of people made their way through like Istanbul was a foot race.
"Woosh, got through all the halls, wow, what do you remember about it?"
"There was a museum full of old things."
After a deliciously long time in the ancient civilization museum with the tablets I love so much, I finally was able to have tea in the park with all the catalogue pieces that didn't make it to a spot under a roof. While walking to the snack stand I saw the same huge cat that I made friends with back in December. This cat is bold and affectionate, when I was taking pictures months ago it would jump at my hands and rub it's head against them. Holding a camera still was impossible, the only option was to pet the cat. After finishing my tea I spent some time watching this cat try to convince a woman to part with her sandwich a few benches down from me, everytime she took a bite it would put it's paw down forcibly on the bench as if to say, "My turn now, sandwich over here."
My feline induced trance was broken by a snatch of conversation that was music to my ears. A woman was saying she didn't want something, but it was in Persian! My entire time here I haven't heard a single person speaking Persian (Farsi) A couple walked by and sat down nearby, chatting merrily. After a few minutes I resolved not to let this opportunity slip by, got up and introduced myself. A great conversation followed, the woman was actually a fantastic English speaker and was visiting Turkey to hopefully get a visa to the United States. Judging by the little golden crucifix and her fashionable western appearance and stylish makeup, she was living it up away from the Ayatollah. We said our farewells and wishes of good luck and I continued to the antiquities museum.
The display of coins from the mint was back and another hall that had been cordoned off was open as well. In the hall on the ground floor that holds most of the Hellenic and Roman marble statues extra displays had been placed, plaster copies of the statues were garishly painted, "as they might have been!" Fortunately they didn't make a bozo the clown version of Marcus Aurelius. It was sad thinking this will be my last visit for a while, but I was able to spend the day in homage of the ancient world. I recommend this museum to anyone going to Istanbul, over the mosques, over the belly dancers, over the hookah cafes and Efes beer. If you're in Istanbul, go to the archeology museum, admission is also cheeper than a hamburger and cola.

Istanbul Shuffle

Spent a night in Baçeşir after an odyssey involving missed chances, public transportation, climbing down embankment walls, thorn bushes, and a bathroom door that only knows how to lock. Whew! But I'm back in M.köy and it's a beautiful day in Istanbul. After a hot as blazes weekend things have settled into partially cloudy and very pleasant summer days. Another night along the great western frontier and I'll be back in the city for the weekend. This weekend I have a few goals, the limits of my stay coming to bare in my mind. One more trip to Sultanahmet is a must, cheesy tourist grabbers and rip-off carpet salesmen aside I haven't actually been inside the palace yet. Besides, I have a back way so I can avoid most of those who would put their culture on display for a dollar. I'll return to the antiquities museum for another go at my old favorites. Maybe the garden cafe is open and I can sip some tea next to marble statues from two millennia ago. Saturday I'll see about going up to Taksim and seeing what's on the menue at the AKM. This is going to be an action packed weekend! And that video of Hasankeyf ain't making itself either!
A trip to the black sea for my last weekend (that's the weekend after next) is in the works. Hopefully I'll make it up that way, I hear nothing but great things about it. Being able to hike in mountains and then enjoy a seaside dinner of fresh fish is a rare opportunity. Don't stay in the same place too long!

Another Multimedia Departure

The hills outside Hasankeyf, feel the vastness of Asia looming!

Cats of Batman, in Video

Cats enjoying a bit of pilfered sheep meat back in Batman. They're so adorable hiding behind all those leaves. The big one knew I was there and kept giving me the evil eye. The movie is about 5 megabytes.

I'm now editing film of Hasankeyf to bring you something pleasing and devoid of my heat-induced babbling.

We're the Socialist Workers' Party! or was that the Socialist Peoples' Platform... People's Socialist Party? United Workers Platform?

I suppose part of my Istanbul experience was lacking, but no longer. In all the months I've been in Istanbul I hadn't marched in a single political demonstration or protest, so when the opportunity came, I jumped on it. The event was in protest of Israel's actions in Lebanon, something I oppose. But let's not break into political diatribes, the actual parade and learning about the left wing parties in Turkey was more interesting than the speeches I couldn't understand. You can read about why killing people is bad elsewhere, on to the parade.
I was told eight-thirty was the time to be in front of the AKM, the cultural center on Taksim Square where I saw a ballet back in December. So a quick ride on the metro and I showed up a few minutes early, just to be safe. At first it seemed like nothing was happening, the usual people hanging out on benches, some beggars, and the tides of humanity flowing down into the packed streets housing Istanbul's night life.
Then my eyes caught about eight or nine people with flags were walking towards the AKM with flags, DSP "Democratic Socialist Party" They seemed to know what was going on, so I followed. More people carrying bundles of flags began converging on the sidewalk in front of the cultural center. Friends greeting each other and embracing, a few water sellers wove trough the crowd trying to make a lira, marchers get thirsty after all. I noticed people were standing in groups, circled with their backs to everyone else, little movement on talking seemed to be going on between these circles. The reasons for this I didn't learn until later. I spotted some friends and joined them, chatting and watching the procession prepare. More flags started to come out and a few minutes later chanting began. The number of parties represented that day must have been near a dozen, and as explained to me later, that was probably only half of the leftist political scene. Not even the entire antiwar movement was represented, nor any labor unions.
Why didn't everyone show? As was explained to me before and during the march, there is no umbrella party that all, or even most of, these small splitter groups can feel comfortable joining. When a demonstration like this one organizes, everyone who gets wind of the happenings sends some people with flags, and then they find out who organized. If they are very opposed to that group, they leave. I saw a couple of people walk off as the march began, bundles of flags under one arm. The march was apparently organized last minute which probably meant the unions did not have time to organize if they would have taken part anyway. From what I was told, union membership in Turkey comes with a requirement to march.
Back to the march, right after sundown we began walking. The megaphones switched on and anti-war anti-imperialism chants began echoing off the surrounding buildings. The police stationed on either side watched the procession and passers-by stop and watched, some clapped, most just watched without getting too close. I was strolling next to the DSP which, despite their small attendance at the parade, is one of the largest left wing political parties in Turkey, ahead of us were tall red banners of Che mixed in with the DHP, far ahead marchers carried torches (not British flashlights, but burning sticks covered with pitch) giving the night parade a really neat feel. Behind us were some anarchists waving black flags and carrying a large banner.
We made our way slowly down to Dolmabahçe Palace and gathered on the quay next to it, the parade circled and stopped, more chanting and then the speeches began. In all, the route that was chosen was perfect for nice downhill easy walking combined with a magnificent view of the Bosphorus at night. It was also a strange decision because they chose to march there rather than, say, the Israeli embassy to protest.
There are also a few concerns with protesting in Turkey, nothing happened that night, but there are apparently anti-terror laws on the books that allow police to forcibly break up and arrest all members of a protest if they feel it is a threat to security. It is also now illegal to spontaneously protest and march, anything of this sort must be registered with the authorities. After the march I had a good dinner at the apartment of some friends I made during the demonstration and caught the last metro back to Şişli. Whew, what a night.

A Weekend Without Internet Doesn't Mean I Don't Write!

Saturday

A pick up has been driving up and down the street today, billowing clouds of white smoke. Calm music plays and a reassuring voice repeats a simple message in Turkish which I can't understand. It might have something to do with the huge numbers of mosquitoes and other nasties that lurk around this city in the summer. I'm back and Istanbul is swinging. My first weekend back and I've already run around two malls, ridden the metro three times, and eaten Turkish fast food. Ah! Civilization!
I'm back in M.köy, no more great western expanses for me. At least not for a few more days. I'm house sitting for the ladies while they're enjoying the coasts of Italy, and I feel so lucky, they have a wonderful house that's very well situated half-way up the hill surrounded by small shops. I unwittingly repeated a shopping blunder that's probably going to get me a few more times before I learn. There are innocently marked green plastic bottles that say "Uludağ Gazoz" making me think, "Score cheep mineral water." but on the side in tiny letters it lets me know it's "Karşik Meyve Aromlı Gazoz" Which means it tastes like weak 7Up, pronounced 'zoop' here. Look at a can, you'll know what I'm saying. Mineral water almost always comes in little green glass bottles, so you'd think I would learn.
Anyway, back at the apartment things are slamming, laundry, shopping, and still no internet. Nothing quite lets me down like joining an open wireless network only to find it connected to a modem desperately in need of resetting. Laundry is progressing into those final stages of, "Well, I don't have room to take this back to the States with me." And planning my wardrobe for the next two weeks.
One of the neighborhood cats must love the ladies, because while I was hanging laundry I bumped into a very fresh kill. Looking up I saw a large tabby looking back, expectantly. I threw the rodent back, I had other dinner plans. A short walk and I was at Cevahir mall and up to the food court for a couple funky pizza things from a Turkish fast food joint. I'm hooked on these things, but they're dirt cheep so it's all good.
Earlier I went shopping in Kanyon mall, wheee this place is so fun to look at, too bad all the stores are super expensive designer merchandise. I went there for one shirt actually, at the OttomanEmpire.

Gotta give it up for that.
Kanyon has impressive and pleasing architecture. While Cevahir feels like being in a huge air-conditioned aqua-blue box with shiny gold pillars everywhere, Kanyon feels like you're in well, a canyon, but a neat industrial vibe. Or like some scene out of Star Wars...




Sunday

Hot and humid are good words to describe mid-July in Istanbul and I'm spending as much of the day as I can inside. I have lots of packing to do since I need to move around a few more times before my departure in two weeks. It's wild just to think of leaving this place. I've become so accustomed to Istanbul and Turkey, what's it going to be like going to a country where everyone is speaking English? Egads. Well today when I muster up the drive, I'm heading down to Haci Baba's, my old yemek-ing spot, for lunch.
I'd take the computer to an internet cafe and hook up for a minute, but I'm determined to finish encoding this DVD of the Wedding in Batman. If anyone wants a copy, I'll provide at cost of materials and shipping, email me and we can work out details. Over 100 minutes of sheep butchery, dancing, and people getting hitched!

Batman, it's a Town Too (Lots of Pictures Ahead)

My plane arrived in the early hours of Wednesday and a very frustrating, internet-less day later I'm back to posting.

Wow folks, it's been an action packed week. I'm still exhausted from an evening flight that turned into a very late night, but all is well and I'm back in lovely Istanbul. This city has really grown on me, as beautiful as the countryside is and as much as I already miss the friends I made there, Istanbul's streets and clutter feels very welcoming. I'll sing this city's praises another time though, I'm sure you're more eager to hear about Batman.
Where to begin? Batman is fairly large, it's certainly not a collection of shacks with donkeys tied outside, it has a real downtown and everything. The town seems to be placed in a bowl, golden hills circle Batman along the horizon. When I arrived, one of the first things of the actual town I saw was the refinery. A high concrete wall topped with razor-wire, along with signs declaring the area a "special security zone" sends a strong message to any who would interrupt the flow of fossil fuels. Most of the people in Batman just seem to ignore the refinery, it's off to one side as it is, though some I talked to felt the town wasn't receiving a fair shake of the profit from the oil. Though it might be that Turkey isn't either.
We stopped along the refinery wall and crossed the street, taking a crumbling side street and immediately drawing a crowd of children. From then until I left my ears were filled with "hello! hello!" eager children enjoying a bit of attention. Walls, and parts of buildings, were composed of cinderblocks but one thing stood out to me in particular, nearly all houses had grape vines making canopies over gardens or even roofs.




Batman also receives very little wind and a lot of sun, the heat was debilitating, I'm still recovering from sunburns. When we spent our days at home everyone would shift around as the day progressed, moving into patches of shade when the formed and staying in the cool parts of the house. But people knew how to deal with it, around the house children scurried with pitchers of water and at most stores where you paused for a few minutes, a glass of water was offered.
Having said that, the second day I was in town we forsook the shade and wise precautions, took a minibus to Hasankeyf and hiked up the cliffs to ancient cave dwellings and the castle built into the cliffs overlooking the Tigris. Enjoy the photos!













I'll write more about Hasankeyf in my next post, now I'm going to take a nap!

And That Makes Two Weddngs in One Week

(another frantically typed non-spellchecked internet cafe post for your perusal. I will return to Istanbul tomorrow night.)

Last night was the final night of wedding festivities. The parlor where events were held was really amazing. We entered a dreary, empty carpark and went up four flights to where suddenly bright lights, rows of tables, and a band greeted us. The entire level had been converted (or intentionally designed that way) with tile flooring, a kitchen and even a stage for the band. The windows gave us an uninterrupted view of the city and sunset behind distant hills. The carpark conversion was a stroke of genious, not only could several hundred guests be accomidated comfortably, but the bride and groom were able to arrive onto the dance floor by car!
I didn't know what to expect and one shared tradition that made me smile was the bride and groom feeding each other a bite of cake right after cutting it. It's shallow and weird of me I know, but seeing little unexpected similarities makes things seem closer.
Having said that I don't really know how to prepare myself for returning to my home in America, it's been such a long time. But I never really fit in anyway, so no loss.

Update From the Eastern Front

(Please forgive my spelling and general organization issues, I`m on a borrowed machine with a Turkish keyboard and operating system.)

This is my third day here in Batman, so much has happened already. One of Apo`s brothers owns the local internet cafe, so I`ve got a moment away from the wedding preparations to post. That`s right, one of the family is getting hitched and there will be non-stop dancing and feasting for the next two days. The video camera has been rolling for it all, so the southeast of Turkey will come alive for you after editing has been completed and I`ve found suitable music to cover the inane comments I make while filming.

Yesterday four of us took a dolmuş to Hasankeyf and after a hike through the hills overlooking the Tigris river we made our way up onto a plateu far above the river where the ruins of a mosque bake in the sun. Tall dry grass and thorny plants cover the hillsides broken by protruding rock that, when viewed from far away, appears to fall along the hills in bands, much like layers seen in canyons worn over the millenia by the rivers flowing through them.

In the clefts of these rocks previous inhabitents carved their dwelling, complete with stairs and shelves. One we entered turned several corners and a staircase in the rear of the cave took us up through darkness to a cave overlooking the river. The mouth of the cave had been carved into an arch and the floor made level.

Towards the castle and town the cave buildings took on a more developed look, incorperating hinged doors and roads paved in stone removed from the hillside. Looking East I felt the great expanse of Asia, the enormity of the land and man`s history enacted upon it.

Expect a lot more when I return to Istanbul on Tuesday. Well, I`ll probably need a day to recover before I can kick into high gear with photo and video processing. So make that Wednesday!

Wedding, Round Two

(Written last night 10:32)
So tonight was the second night of the wedding party. That or this place is booked solid for midsummer night weddings. Sunday night meant nearing the end of my it's-the-weekend-so-I-have-to-pay-for-food fast so I was feeling a bit hungry, and the smells drifting in weren't helping my trying to sleep at the absurdly early hour of eight thirty. So I hesitated, waited for the music to really increase in volume (I'll talk about the music in a bit) which probably meant most people had been served and were now dancing, and I headed out towards the smell of delicious food. This had to be the longest I've waited and the most fun I've had getting a meal that I shouldn't legitimately be having. Walking over to the line was simple enough, as I suspected most people were on the dance floor, I just strolled along (barefoot I might add) looking like I had every reason to be there. Any eye contact was met with my best I-know-these-people-and-I'm-so-happy-for-them smile and I got into line next to the cooking station, a line of charcoal cooking bins with skewers over them and a table for making wraps with lettuce and seasonings.
So far so good, I just waited, three older men were talking in front of me, I kept picking up numbers along with names of currency and units of length, meter and kilometer. So I still don't really have a clue what exactly it was about. This line was moving slowly, I mean slow! There was some cooking difficulties, the charcoal didn't seem to be hot enough or something. That didn't stop my smiling, no sir. Two Turkish girls on cellphones joined the line after a bit, your usual ultra-cute bourgeoisie Turks. They figured out right away I didn't belong and kept tittering to each other about it.
Somewhere around two meters being covered in half an hour one of the men in front of me decided to throw sobriety to the wind and approached the nearby bar. A glass of red, followed by four glasses of white ensued over the course of our time together. He kept turning to me (especially when his buddies started getting bored with his quickly becoming inebriated) and asking me little questions, or making jokes. Now, I've said it before but it's really worth saying again, 90% of communication really is nonverbal. I just laughed when I should, and agreed the rest of the time. When he asked where one of his buddies went I pointed vaguely towards the beverage shack and said "Bira" then grinned. Another half hour follow of the girls behind me very keen on my ploy and this fellow enjoying me as a conversation partner.
Then he asked something I had no way of responding to that I knew. And he asked again. Then in a soft voice he asked, "You don't speak Turkish, do you?" My jig was up! I confessed with a grin and he started laughing, asking me where my home was, what I was doing in Turkey the usual things. As it turns out he is a science professor at Baçeşehir U. Then he turned to his friends and explained to them how this whole time he thought I spoke Turkish (much to my credit I suppose) by only answering him simply.
After another not so short wait in which I was introduced to his wife and all his friends, given business cards for spare auto part salesmen and the usual conversation about football the food was ready! I had a steaming hot wrap in my hand, prepared by a cook who made some ornate speech where I only understood "Turkish" and "English" while the girls laughed. And one of the bourgeoisie girls even worked up the party spirit to go ask the bartender for two cans of beer. Good on them, it was a fun evening to get a bite to eat. It's just past eleven now and I should sleep but the music is still going strong despite the steady trickle of exiting guests.

Let's Talk About Equality

It was a pretty wild one last night, at least I assume from the blasting music that lasted past the early hours. The activity center next door was host to a wedding! Guests began showing up at the dormitory entrance asking me (I assume) where the wedding was. Besides being a filing cabinet for people with connection to Baçeşehir U who're out of a place to sleep, this facility has some tennis courts, grass, waiters, and a pool that the surrounding community plays in during the day, bless them. And last night a couple decided they wanted to be hitched, pool-side. Well, it was just the reception I think, though the whole affair might be rolled into one super party out here. I will be attending a Kurdish wedding when I'm out in Batman, so at least we'll see how it's done out that way.
But this lazy summer, post-wedding Sunday afternoon I've got other things on my mind. Those things that everyone just says, "Well that's how things are." I mean gender inequality, and people's apathy towards it. Looking around myself I notice these dormitories post a curfew, in your rooms, light out kind of curfew. And it only applies to the girls in the dormitory ( which is why it's posted at entrance of the Kız instead of Erkek hall) The other university I visited while in North Cyprus had the same issue. They can't tell all the 17-19 year olds what to do, just the girls.
There are also the little taboos that only apply to women, no smoking while walking, no leaving your home with wet hair. (implies you're a prostitute, and that you've just been making it.) Or the staggering percentage of Turkish men (80% was the number I heard) who feel it's their right to beat a wife or daughter who misbehaves. It's really frustrating to hear the excuses given of how that's just how society works. So remember, when falling back on approval from ages past, no matter what your actions, they aren't excused or respectable.
To clarify, it's not an Islam thing here. Turkey can hardly be called a religious place, the spectaular mosques are all empty. It's just people are very used to a chauvinistic system. Remember, American women couldn't vote until a mere 86 years ago and not after a lot of effort to change the "way things are."
But hey, it's a nice day, got a nice cool breeze today. Tomorrow I'll be back at the prep school, the cafe is a deliciously cool two floors underground and comes with free food and internet. Combine that with a lack of students and it's a little slice of paradise.

Çok, Çok Sıcak!! Save me!

The heat has me too tired to compose anything substantial after a long night of mosquito bites and indigestion. Best luck to everyone out there trying to beat the heat. A little trick I like is to put on a CD of recorded rain and thunderstorms, no matter if it's 30 degrees I feel a cold rush. Here are some photos from today.


Bad news takes many forms. Nice house, but I don't live there. I live across the street here.


This Mama kitty



and Kittens came to investigate me while I ate lunch, the mother was the only one really brave enough to come up for a petting and ear scratching session.