18 July 2006

We're the Socialist Workers' Party! or was that the Socialist Peoples' Platform... People's Socialist Party? United Workers Platform?

I suppose part of my Istanbul experience was lacking, but no longer. In all the months I've been in Istanbul I hadn't marched in a single political demonstration or protest, so when the opportunity came, I jumped on it. The event was in protest of Israel's actions in Lebanon, something I oppose. But let's not break into political diatribes, the actual parade and learning about the left wing parties in Turkey was more interesting than the speeches I couldn't understand. You can read about why killing people is bad elsewhere, on to the parade.
I was told eight-thirty was the time to be in front of the AKM, the cultural center on Taksim Square where I saw a ballet back in December. So a quick ride on the metro and I showed up a few minutes early, just to be safe. At first it seemed like nothing was happening, the usual people hanging out on benches, some beggars, and the tides of humanity flowing down into the packed streets housing Istanbul's night life.
Then my eyes caught about eight or nine people with flags were walking towards the AKM with flags, DSP "Democratic Socialist Party" They seemed to know what was going on, so I followed. More people carrying bundles of flags began converging on the sidewalk in front of the cultural center. Friends greeting each other and embracing, a few water sellers wove trough the crowd trying to make a lira, marchers get thirsty after all. I noticed people were standing in groups, circled with their backs to everyone else, little movement on talking seemed to be going on between these circles. The reasons for this I didn't learn until later. I spotted some friends and joined them, chatting and watching the procession prepare. More flags started to come out and a few minutes later chanting began. The number of parties represented that day must have been near a dozen, and as explained to me later, that was probably only half of the leftist political scene. Not even the entire antiwar movement was represented, nor any labor unions.
Why didn't everyone show? As was explained to me before and during the march, there is no umbrella party that all, or even most of, these small splitter groups can feel comfortable joining. When a demonstration like this one organizes, everyone who gets wind of the happenings sends some people with flags, and then they find out who organized. If they are very opposed to that group, they leave. I saw a couple of people walk off as the march began, bundles of flags under one arm. The march was apparently organized last minute which probably meant the unions did not have time to organize if they would have taken part anyway. From what I was told, union membership in Turkey comes with a requirement to march.
Back to the march, right after sundown we began walking. The megaphones switched on and anti-war anti-imperialism chants began echoing off the surrounding buildings. The police stationed on either side watched the procession and passers-by stop and watched, some clapped, most just watched without getting too close. I was strolling next to the DSP which, despite their small attendance at the parade, is one of the largest left wing political parties in Turkey, ahead of us were tall red banners of Che mixed in with the DHP, far ahead marchers carried torches (not British flashlights, but burning sticks covered with pitch) giving the night parade a really neat feel. Behind us were some anarchists waving black flags and carrying a large banner.
We made our way slowly down to Dolmabahçe Palace and gathered on the quay next to it, the parade circled and stopped, more chanting and then the speeches began. In all, the route that was chosen was perfect for nice downhill easy walking combined with a magnificent view of the Bosphorus at night. It was also a strange decision because they chose to march there rather than, say, the Israeli embassy to protest.
There are also a few concerns with protesting in Turkey, nothing happened that night, but there are apparently anti-terror laws on the books that allow police to forcibly break up and arrest all members of a protest if they feel it is a threat to security. It is also now illegal to spontaneously protest and march, anything of this sort must be registered with the authorities. After the march I had a good dinner at the apartment of some friends I made during the demonstration and caught the last metro back to Şişli. Whew, what a night.

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